A week-long Iceland: 5.Nov.16 - 12.Nov.16

This trip was slightly doomed. The break-up was followed by my employment termination, and the weather in Iceland was more unfriendly than the ex-girlfriend. However, the activity that I’d thought I would enjoy the least because of its commercial approach was what I enjoyed the most. Three hours of relaxed stay in the man-made hot spring; it would have been surreal if not for the military-like order of the facility. Still, it was what I enjoyed most in Iceland. I’m not saying that the Blue Lagoon is the most beautiful thing in Iceland. No, it’s not. It’s an experiment gone wrong and in our guide’s words, “a human disaster”. But the government was smart enough to turn it into a world-famous attraction.

We took the day tour to the west coast going around Snaefellsness peninsula. With frequent showers throughout the day, it was difficult to enjoy the tour completely, but we did come across some magnificent landscapes. For a population of about 330,000, most of whom according to a recent poll, are atheists, Iceland seems to have a lot of churches. They are beautiful though, some with very interesting architecture. We also went through a 6 km tunnel, which is below sea level. It was completed in two years and I couldn’t help thinking that in that amount of time, in my country, we just may be able to build a one-km flyover, which may fall off within the next two years.

We left Reykjavik three days later for another organised tour. Went around the Golden circle and the South coast. Amongst the many stops was a local farmer’s store. For someone from India, it was amazing to witness a store run on trust. There was no one to service you. Just the goods, a chart with the prices, and a box with cash. You pick what you want and leave the money in the box. The second day was a clear day by Icelandic standards, and our guide was smart enough to modify the itinerary to fit the cave walk and glacier hike on that day. We returned to Reykjavik on the third day through rough weather. The wind was so strong that the waterfalls were defying Newton’s theory of gravitation.

I would be lying if I say I greatly enjoyed this trip. The fact is, I hate doing organised tours, but as I can’t drive, there was no other option. Because of the small population, the public transport is limited to Reykjavik. However, I would love to visit Iceland again, the next time hopefully during the summers.  

Hiking to Mt. Rinjani:

I had been preparing for the trek to Mt. Rinjani for a while. Zaidah and I went for a hike to McRitchie Reservoir and I was climbing the 15 flights of stairs to the flat I have been sharing with a bunch of Filipinos. But it was the jogging that ruined my knee. After that, I’d been anxious about the trip. Would I be able to make it to the Summit?

The hike was not very difficult, given that we had about three days to be back at the base. However, my knee gave up on me at the end of the first day. The next morning was the climb to the summit, the most difficult part of the climb because of the ash on the ground, which pulls you back every few steps you go ahead. The two German teenagers in my group were the fastest of the climbers and I was one of the slowest. Fortunately, I had an excuse. I spent no more than 10 minutes at the summit as it was freezing. Climbing down was twice as difficult. By lunch we were by the hot springs and there are few things I have awaited more. I was hoping that some magical minerals in the spring would cure my knee, but alas. 

Another stretch of climb after lunch and we were at the camping site, which was beautiful. Unfortunately, the place was also littered with faeces. Not all the tour companies set up a temporary toilet, and mostly the human to toilet ratio is poor. So, I am also guilty of not carrying a mini shovel to bury my shit. 

Once I was back in the village of Senaru, I took up a better room at the homestay. Mr. Adi and his family were very friendly. Being the festive month of Ramadan, I was even offered some home-made snacks. The place reminded me of my village. Even the long journey from the airport was like travelling from Bagdogra to Pedong. As we slowly ascended to the higher grounds and felt the cold breeze hit the face, I knew I was going to stay here for more than I’d planned to.

I spent the last two days in Kuta, Bali. Funky Monkeys was just the kind of hostel I liked. Run by locals with just the right decibel of noise and enough guests in their thirties. Tea/coffee and pancake batter on the house anytime of the day or night. At night, I went to Sky Garden with a few people from the hostel. The buffet was one of the best I’ve ever had. For less than 15 USD, it was a steal. One of the Argentinian guys with us owned a "love" hotel back home and grew his own weed. He tried scoring after the party but was given some dry leaves of a common plant. Unfortunate. 

The next day I got a tattoo on my forearm, had a terrible foot massage, picked up a gift for Zaidah, and then made my way to the airport. It was an excellent trip.

Thailand—Ao Nang and Phi Phi: 5.Feb.16 - 9.Feb.16

Perhaps I didn’t go to the right beaches. Ao Nang was not what I’d imagined, neither was Phi Phi. But the island tour was quite okay, though I was irked by some of the westerners’ poor attitude and inability to appreciate or even understand the Asian culture. But that’s that. I got my first tattoo. Ujjwal wanted to get it, but he was kind enough. I also had my first scuba diving experience in Phi Phi. It’s such a beautiful world in there. I felt like I had accomplished a lot. This was a short trip and I was returning to Krabi the next morning. Phi phi is full of drunk tourists. When there is demand, there is supply. Every store or a make-shift one is selling mini cocktail buckets. So, after enough alcohol has flowed through your veins, you can enter one of the bars and listen to live music over a pint of beer that stays with you till they throw you out of the bar. I remember trying to get on the stage after the musicians had left. I fortunately got off before the bouncers came in.

The next day Ujjwal and Rohan left for another island and I returned to Krabi, where I stayed the night. Krabi is a relatively quiet town. After enjoying some street food, I took a walk around the town. Then, I stepped into a bar. The owner/bartender looked like a guy out of a Thai gangster movie. He was playing classic rock and competing with the bar at the other side of the road, which had live music. So, the competition made the music loud, but you can’t complain to AC/DC. I had an early morning flight. Didn’t stay till the bar closed.

Vietnam: 24.Dec.15 - 02.Jan.16

Wrath of War

Vietnam probably has one of the longest history of fighting colonisers. The Chinese neighbours, the French and Dutch, and the most infamous of all, the Americans. All of them left, courtesy the brave and dogged Vietnamese resistance. The only country where the Americans suffered defeat, and were forced to retreat, Vietnam and its war, I doubt is presented accurately in Hollywood films. However, step into the 21st century Vietnam, you would hardly notice any signs of anti-American feelings. Vietnam has forgotten and forgiven. At least, that’s how an outsider is made to believe.

Step into Ho Chi Minh City, and it’s difficult to imagine the war of the 70s. The pub street, where you would see as many locals as foreigners, offers amongst other things, music, massage and marijuana. It’s a lively, chaotic street, with great food and very friendly locals. I would go there again. Though there are hundreds of scooters navigating their way through the narrow streets and alleys, you hardly hear them honking. Guess we Indians have no reason to blame the busy traffic for the deafening noise we create.

Mekong Delta

It was quite a surprise to come across another Sikkimese in the dormitory of a backpacker’s hostel. Sherap was a college student, travelling south-east Asia with some savings of his own and a bit of blessings from parents. It’s not common for students in India to backpack on foreign soils, at least not where I come from. He deserved admiration and some beer. The backpackers I met in the hostel were planning to bike to Hanoi. Many claim it’s one of the most scenic routes. I did not have the luxury of time or the energy of a teenager. After a couple of days in HCM city, which involved a trip to the Mekong Delta (which deserves more than a day’s stay), Ujjwal and I flew to Hanoi.

It had been a long time since I’d felt the cool breeze hit my skin. After about an hour in the shared taxi, we reached the hostel in the Old Quarter. The hostel wasn’t bad, but we moved to a more “happening” hostel the next day. We spent two days doing local tours—one of which was a trip to the Perfume Pagoda. After a 2-hour bus ride, we got onto a boat, which took us to the base of the mountain. The woman who rowed the boat, did not take a single break throughout the journey, which lasted an hour. Amazing. It was a short hike to the pagoda, and we had the option to take a cable car to the base.

Floating Houses in Halong Bay

Halong Bay

Halong Bay, a heritage site in UNESCO’s list, was next in line.

We had to take a bus, where we were introduced to the other groups, and then another boat before we got onto the “junk” boat. It was very cold—though everyone prayed for the sun, it had a mind of its own. In spite of the freezing weather, many including Ujjwal jumped into the water. I would had too, if I knew how to swim. In the evening we arrived at a private island, where we were going to stay the night. We ate, drank, played ping pong, and then beer pong. One of us gave a speech, someone went to swim in the sea, and another puked on the beach. Well it was New Year’s Eve. 

The Hike

The next day, after lunch, we left the island and went for a short hike. Then we were taken to a “party” boat. We’d had enough of that last night. So, to the disappointment of the boat staff, who would have made some cash had we chosen to get drunk, it was a quiet night. By next evening, we were back in the hostel. Ujjwal left for Sapa and I spent my last night in the hostel.

England and Scotland: 24 Jul - 09 Aug 2015

I couldn’t decide whether to shave my beard or leave it be. I was a little concerned of the security prejudices at the Immigration. I trimmed. After 14 long and tiring hours on the plane and another five hours on the economy-class seats of Abu Dhabi airport, I reached Heathrow and past it. No uncomfortable security checks. No prejudices. Perhaps, I could have kept my beard!

Father-to-be Nikhilesh was waiting for me. Took the London tube, and then the bus to reach Sophie’s place, where Nikhilesh and Anuradha were put up. The first time I had come across the word “heath” was in Wuthering Heights, and I had to browse the dictionary to know how it was different from a park. Hampstead Heath was Sophie’s backyard, well almost. A beautiful place. You can walk for hours and still leave new places to discover the next day.

Beer by the Thames

An English breakfast in England, quite clichéd? Who cares? It was a good breakfast. Thanks to Swayambhu, our energetic, slow-mo friend. After the heavy breakfast at the New England Cafe, we went to take a look at the Buckingham palace—not as impressive as I’d expected. Of course, if the Queen would have invited us for tea, I would say something else. Ended the day with some beer by the Thames.

The next day, I met Anu. It was nice seeing her—I was meeting her after four years. We had some beer, spoke about her brother’s (my best friend) crazy acts before heading our own ways. In the evening, I moved to Swayambhu’s place in East London. Shadwell is referred to as mini Bangladesh. We packed our bags and went to sleep—the next day we were taking a train ride to Edinburgh.

Ullapool

Clachtoll

Scotland!! No piece of writing can do justice to the beauty in Scotland. Any place you go in Scotland will please you with its breath-taking landscape. So, a good pair of hiking shoes, warm clothes and a rain coat should be on your checklist because the best way to see Scotland is by foot. Unfortunately, we spent more time inside the car than outside.

An Airbnb house awaited us in Lochinver. It was a beautiful house. The kind you imagine to build for yourself. The mountains behind and the lake on front. We couldn’t have stayed in a more beautiful location. We decided not to visit Loch Ness—spare the poor monster. But we took a boat ride on another lake and froze our balls. In our defence, even the Swiss were felling cold.

Duncansby Head Lighthouse

John O Groats was a long drive, which Anuradha and Nikhilesh smartly decided to skip. Swayambhu and I joined Suvo and Tia, the other couple in the trip, for this very long drive. I regretted it later, even though John O Groats was beautiful.

The next day was going to be another day-long drive to a hostel in Isle of Skye. After staying in that beautiful house in Lochinver, a European hostel seemed just like a hostel. We were grumpy, angry at each other—let’s say we were bad travellers. If you browse the travel websites and forums on Scotland, Isle of Skye is always portrayed as a must-visit place. I’m not sure if it was our mood, but Isle of Skye did not seem as beautiful as Lochinver to us. Perhaps, it was the cottage. Also, the thought that our holiday was coming towards an end.

On the way back to Edinburgh, Suvo, Tia and Anuradha went to visit a distillery, while the three of us sat in a pub and had some beer. Swayambhu does not drink alcohol. He drinks something more harmful—coke. I can’t remember exactly how we procrastinated our dinner, but by the time we were in Sterling, we were extremely hungry but could not find restaurants willing to serve us. Not because we were Indians, such things don’t happen anymore, I hope. They were closing. Finally, a Punjabi restaurant rescued us. Though the food was not great, we were way too hungry to realise it. Anyhow, we reached Edinburgh around midnight, and the next day we were returning to London. I had a few more days in London before heading back to Singapore.

Swayambhu and I took a guided tour of East London on a bicycle. Brick Lane was one of the stops in the tour, and we decided to have chicken wings here. The wings were served with sauces of different hotness scale. The arrogant bastards asked for the hottest. The nice gentleman serving the wings warned us and insisted that we taste the sauce first, before making that brave but stupid decision. We should have changed our minds, but egos were hurt by then and so were our stomachs a few moments later.

In the evening, Anuradha and Nikhilesh joined us for a play based on George Orwell’s, 1984. I’m not a regular theatre-goer, but I must say that one must watch at least one play, if in London.

I also met Achu Namgay and his family. Spent a night at their house—machila (sister-in-law) had made some awesome Naga-style pork. Oh, I have a weakness for pork.

The next day we were in Oxford. It was nothing like I imagined. It had opened its gates, far too wide for the tourists. Can’t be the reason the gates aren’t as open to students. Anuradha had a group of Nepali friends here—research scholars, teachers. Punting was fun—I fell in the river. It deserved another day, but I had to catch a plane the next morning.